when making a long coat that's a bit fitted~not tight but contoured to the curves, how do you adjust the back panels? i'm doing it, but it's sloppy..ideas?
posted by:
|
-
Re: fitted coat
Wed, February 13, 2008 - 8:24 AMWhat adjusting do they need? Pictures would be helpful.
It's all about math -- take measurements, lots of measurements, add seam allowances and "play" and you should be good to go. I am curious about "play" though. Is there a general rule of thumb as to how much "play" to give a fitted, non-stretchy garment? Any mens wear afficionados around here?
When I made Cowboy's pimp coat, I guessed and it was tight at the shoulders and across the back. I had to resew with really teeny seam allowances so that he had enough room to move. -
-
Re: fitted coat
Wed, February 13, 2008 - 9:15 AMeven in a fitted garment, 2 inches of ease is recommended. and for a coat.. well.. if you're going to be wearing clothes under it.. you need to consider that, too. and yes.. pictues would be useful.. depending on the seams/style lines, there are different options for alteration -
-
Re: fitted coat
Wed, February 13, 2008 - 5:59 PMwell, i could draw you a picture...
this isn't an existing coat, it's a coat i make from other material. i've made two, the first i gathered the back at the waist and made kind of two pleats, i guess, the second i tried trimming and trimming the side and center panels until i was satisfied. i didn't measure anything, just used another jumper for an idea and made up the rest.
your questions are helping me process this, though, and now i'm thinking a more specific question might be: should i decrease the width of the center panel at the waist, the side/back panels, or both? -
-
Re: fitted coat
Wed, February 13, 2008 - 7:42 PMIf you want it to look svelte or slimming, I suggest decreasing all panels at the waist - do an on-line search for Regency period clothing at look at the back. (For some reason, Regency (Napoleon, etc) popped into my head while reading your post.)
-
Re: fitted coat
Wed, February 13, 2008 - 7:44 PMIf there's any kind of striping or visible grain of the fabric, you really want it to lie straight up and down in the center, which would force you to nip in the profile at the sides. If there's no visible nap or grain, then you've got more flexibility, esp. if the person you're making it for has a trim waist. You don't want to stray too much from straight up and down with the grain of the fabric in the center, though, because once you put fabrics a bit on the bias, they start hanging and stretching funny. -
-
Re: fitted coat
Thu, February 14, 2008 - 12:54 PMbeautiful...thank you both so much~i'll search regency for sure.
-
-
-
-
